I struggled to fix the Maytag washer code F03 E01 for a week.
I replaced the air domes and pressure switch, hoping that I’ll fix the Maytag washer code F03 E01.
But that wasn’t the case.
So, I called a few technicians who encouraged me to change the drain pump.
It was a brilliant suggestion except for one thing:
What if replacing the drain pump doesn’t fix the Maytag washer code F03 E01?
I couldn’t help, but imagine the thought of my washer flushing F03 301 again.
And the conclusion will be:
BUYING MORE REPLACEMENTS PARTS = NO RESULTS.
That’s going back to square one.
I took a different route, went to the washer’s admin mode, and ran the same test, which cleared out all the errors.
Two things happened after the tests:
- The washer started working.
- The main problem was the motherboard.
(This part is expensive, so I may consider buying a new washer).
And today, I’m going to show you how to fix Maytag washer code F03 E01.
What Does F03 E01 Mean on a Maytag Washer?
F03 E01 error code means your Maytag washer’s CCU can’t detect the washer level.
To be clear:
The washer’s pressure switch thinks you have overfilled it with water.
And the bad news is?
That will prevent the door from unlocking. During this time, your Maytag washer’s door will remain locked until all the water in the tub is drained.
Even if the washer stops in the mid-cycle, the door won’t open.
The problem lies with the water pressure switch. And that’s where you have to look.
Before we go any further:
There’s one thing I like to do before diagnosing and repairing any washer.
And that’s confirming whether I have a genuine error or a false alarm.
Most washers (including Maytag) can flush a FALSE ALARM due to a few malfunctions that can be corrected by RESET. That said, here’s how to do a RESET:
- Unplug the Maytag washer from the electric powerline and water supply outlet.
- Wait for 10 minutes for the washer to clear the error.
- Plug it back and launch a complete cycle.
If the washer still flushes Maytag error code F03 E01, you’ll have to follow my troubleshooting guide in the next section. Remember to check other Maytag errors that I encountered here.
How Do I Fix Code F03 E01 on My Maytag Washer
Check the Pressure Switch
The pressure switch controls the water level, usually found at the top of the washer.
When the water fills the Maytag washer, the air is pushed up and the hose by the rising water level in the drum.
The air rises until it activates the pressure switch.
The wash cycle then starts agitating the clothes. When the Maytag washer finishes the cycles, the control board instructs the washer to empty the water.
The pressure switch tells the control board when the washer is emptying, and the process of the spin cycle begins.
Problems associated with the pressure chambers, hose, and switch are:
Overfilling due to blockage in the hose or chamber itself.
And the cause is old detergent being stuck in the chamber. One way of remedying this is disconnecting the hose and blowing it down.
Through that, you’ll know if you have a blockage in it. You can do the same with the chamber and clean it out. Damage to the hose can cause the problem too.
Sometimes the hose can rub against other parts of the Maytag washer, causing holes or wear and tear. That’s why most pressures have extra protection sleeves on them.
Any holes or damage means you have to replace it. Since the pressure switch won’t know how much water the washer has, this can cause refilling. And it can even cause water to flow over the drum level.
Another common problem is if you have a drum half full of water and you set it to a drain cycle and then turn the machine off, you find that water is still siphoning away.
That can be caused by the drain hose being set too low, so it’s below the water level in the drum.
Using a drain hose clip to fasten the drain hose to keep it secure is a good idea. Then you have to fix it so it’s above the water level in the drum and ensures it does not fall.
Testing the Pressure Switch Chambers
The next step is testing the switch chamber for electrical failure. To do that, you’ll use a multimeter/ volt-ohm meter and set it to OHMSX1.
Unplug the wiring harness to the pressure switch terminals. It means disengaging a wire plug. Label this wire before disconnecting.
The pressure chamber has three terminals. You’ll test them in pairs for continuity. Begin with touching the meter probes to terminals 1 and 2.
Take note of the reading. It should be either infinity (to mean no continuity) or a valve close to 0.0 to show continuity.
Then touch the probes again to terminals 2 and 3 and take the readings. Two pairs will show no continuity, and the other will have continuity.
Any results besides what I have stated mean you have a bad switch. You can get a new switch.
Finally, reconnect the tube back.
Testing the Air Dome or Trap
The pressure switch has a tube or air dome that runs down and connects to the bottom of the tub.
Connect the multimeter probes to the pressure switch(three terminals). Then you’ll have to trick the washer by blowing air gently into the tube while testing the terminals in pairs for continuity.
In the first round, you’ll hear the switch click when you blow air through the line and pinch air domes closed to maintain the air pressure and take the readings.
Do a second test on the probes and compare them. You’ll notice the pair that showed no continuity in the first round will show continuity in the second round (with pressure in the tubs).
The pair that shows continuity in the first round will show no continuity in the second round. If you get different results, your switch is wrong and must be replaced. Get the OEM replacement switch.
Faulty Main Control Board
The main control board is the brain of the Maytag washer. If everything is okay, you may have a faulty motherboard like me.
This would be a problem, especially if the Maytag washer code F03 E01 comes immediately when you turn on the Maytag washer.
The Maytag washer motherboard can be diagnosed for electrical arcing, damaged, or faulty components. Here’s how to go about it:
- Unplug the Maytag washer from its electrical/water outlet
- Carefully remove the main control board, which is behind the control pad, after accessing the washer’s cabinet
- Inspect the motherboard for wear and tear, cracks, and damage.
Any fault or damage means you’ll have to replace the board immediately. Make sure you buy only the OEM part.
Diagnosing the motherboard is complicated. Most appliance technicians shy away. Replacing the board should be the last resort because it’s costly.